The PGIs (Τα ΠΓΕ)

01How to read an Attiki label

Greek wine labels carry two levels of protected origin. PDO (ΠΟΠ) is the narrower, with tighter rules on yield, varieties and boundaries. PGI (ΠΓΕ) is the broader, and it is the level at which Attiki works: both designations described below are PGI. That is not a lesser category, it is a wider one, and in a region where a single grower may farm parcels in three different soils it is often the more honest fit.

Where a variety is named on the label, EU rules set a minimum proportion of that variety in the blend, and where two or more are named they appear in descending order of proportion.

Vintage is stated on nearly all Attiki PGI wines. On old-vine Savatiano it is worth attention: these are wines built to be opened later, and a bottle three or four years past its harvest is not old stock but a wine arriving where it was going.

02PGI Attiki (ΠΓΕ Αττική)

The PGI Attiki (ΠΓΕ Αττική) has witnessed consistent growth during the last decades and is nowadays considered to be one of the premier wine-regions of Greece. There are so many interesting things that take place both in the vineyards and the wineries that are producing authentic wines that clearly speak of their origins. Savatiano is the key grape variety followed by a number of other exciting grapes responsible for the recent modern, expressive wines with lovely purity and focus. Half an hour drive from the Athens city center you will be amazed to find well preserved old vines that have endured in this historic region. These old Savatiano vineyards are prized not only for their ability to produce excellent wines, but for the deep viticultural traditions they represent.

Terroir. Overall, Attiki has a typical warm Mediterranean climate. In fact, this is one of the hottest and driest regions in Greece. The entire region, with the exception of its west-northwest part, is surrounded by the sea. Cool breezes (Meltemia) blow inland from the sea and mitigate the summer temperatures. Depending on the proximity to the sea and the vineyard altitude, the varied landscapes provide a number of mini terroirs with different microclimates, ideal for viticulture. Thus, there are significant variations in climate within the sub-regions.

The coastal zone of Mesogaia is located in the eastern part of Attiki and has the warmest and driest climate in the entire region. On the other hand, the region of Megara due to its proximity to the Saronic and Corinth gulfs on both sides, is relatively cooler. Further to the northwest, the PGI Slopes of Kithaironas display a more continental influence in its microclimate. However, the northern part of Attiki is the one with the coolest climate. Vineyards are found in the mountains of Parnitha and Penteli and the wine-styles are more distinctive than in other warmer regions of Attiki.

Even though, a significant part of Attiki is mountainous, there are vineyards in semi-mountainous areas as well as near sea-level. The soils consist of sand and gravel with a limestone and rocky bedrock. Training systems are varied, however a large part of the Attiki vineyard is trained in Gobelet, in order to cope with the dry and hot weather conditions that prevail in the region. Certain parts of Attiki such as Mesogaia are characterized by old vines. These low-yielding vineyards are more than 50 years old.

The varieties. Savatiano is by far the most important grape variety in the vineyards of PGI Attiki (ΠΓΕ Αττική). It crafts dry white wines with a lovely purity of fruit and well-integrated acidity levels. Other varieties such as the indigenous Malagousia, Assyrtiko, and Roditis are planted to a lesser extent, but their wines are significant in terms of quality. Attiki is not a traditional red-wine producer, however there are small plantings of indigenous and international grape varieties such as Agiorgitiko, Mandilaria, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.

Permitted grapes, white: Aidani, Athiri, Assyrtiko, Malagousia, Roditis, Savatiano, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Ugni Blanc. Important: Savatiano, Assyrtiko, Malagousia, Roditis. Permitted styles: dry, semi-dry, semi-sweet, dry sweet, sweet from sun-dried grapes.

Permitted grapes, red: Agiorgitiko, Limniona, Mandilaria, Mouchtaro, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Grenache Rouge, Merlot, Syrah. Important: Agiorgitiko, Mandilaria, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah. Permitted styles: dry, semi-dry, semi-sweet, sweet, sweet fortified from sun-dried grapes. Important style: dry.

Rosé wines: from the permitted varieties in white and red wines. Important: Agiorgitiko, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Grenache Rouge. Permitted styles: dry, semi-dry, semi-sweet, sweet, sweet fortified from sun-dried grapes. Important style: dry.

At a glance. Region: Attiki is located on the southeastern tip of Central Greece and is largely defined by the presence of Athens, the capital of Greece. Wines bearing the PGI Attiki (ΠΓΕ Αττική) designation can be produced all over the region at an altitude of over 30m above sea level. Climate: Typical hot Mediterranean climate, particularly dry during the summer. Most of Attica region is surrounded by the sea and cool sea-breezes mitigate the hot weather during the growing season. Topography: Mountainous, semi-mountainous and lowlands. Most important grapes: Savatiano. Main wine styles: fruity, refreshing dry white wines, complex and mineral whites with ageing potential, medium-full bodied dry reds, vibrant dry rose wines. Most important style: dry white wines.

In practice, this is the designation most Attiki wine is bottled under, and the numbers explain why. With holdings averaging under a hectare, a single winery may draw fruit from parcels several kilometers and several soil types apart. The regional name is the only one that covers them all honestly.

The wines to look for are the two extremes of what the designation allows. At one end, the fresh, early-drinking whites that built the region's reputation for value. At the other, old-vine Savatiano from the Mesogaia and the northern slopes, low-yielding and built for time. Reds and rosés are permitted and made, but they remain a small part of the picture.

03PGI Slopes of Kithaironas (ΠΓΕ Πλαγιές Κιθαιρώνα)

The production zone of PGI Slopes of Kithaironas (ΠΓΕ Πλαγιές Κιθαιρώνα) comprises parts of two districts. One of them is located in the western part of Attiki and includes the area of Erythres, while the other is located in Boeotia regional unit and includes the area of Plataies. It's an up-coming viticultural zone where both native and international varieties have adapted well to the local terroir.

History. As evidence from historical texts and archaeological findings show, viticulture took place in the area of Erythres at least since 2.500 BC. There are also many archeological sites in the broader region such as the Oracle of Kithaironas, the cave of Dionysus Nymphs or the cave of “Sfragidio”.

The ancient city of Eleutherae was a worship center of Dionysus and was located on the border between Attiki and Boeotia. The cult of Dionysus was transferred from here to Athens. The feast of “Dionysia”, originally an Eleutherean festival in celebration of the new harvest was the event that led to the creation of what was then a completely new literary and artistic genre: the Theatre. Consequently, at the Theatre of Dionysus, the priest of Dionysus Eleuthereus was the principal honoree and his ornate marble throne was center-placed in the front row of the spectator seats.

A note on the Dionysia, added after checking the sources. The cult of Dionysus Eleuthereus was indeed carried to Athens from Eleutherae, on the border of Attica and Boeotia, and the City Dionysia was held in his honor — the festival for which almost all surviving Greek drama was written. The rural festival at Eleutherae, however, is generally described as a celebration of the cultivation of the vine rather than of the new harvest, and it was held in midwinter rather than at vintage. The claim is stronger, not weaker, stated that way: the god the tragedies were written for came to Athens from this mountain, and he came from a vineyard.

Terroir. An imposing mountain is the physical boundary between Boeotia in the north and Attiki in the south. It is largely covered in pine trees at higher altitudes, while the vineyards are spread throughout the slopes at altitudes up to 400 m above sea level. The climate can be described as Mediterranean with continental influences. During the winter, heavy snow can cover the vineyards. There is a significant diurnal temperature range during the growing season and this results in a slow, yet full maturation of the grapes. The soils are mostly clay loam and sandy loam and the best vineyards are located on well-drained gentle slopes, as good rainfall in the zone is common.

The varieties. The terroir of Kithaironas hosts a significant number of indigenous and international grape varieties. White-wine production is dominated by grapes such as Assyrtiko, Malagousia and Savatiano, to a lesser extent. The wines are upfront, fresh and harmonious with pleasant acidity levels. Red wines are mainly crafted from international grape varieties. Here the “stars” are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. The wine styles range from fresh and fruity to rich, dense and cellar worthy.

Permitted grapes, white: Athiri, Assyrtiko, Malagousia, Roditis, Savatiano, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc. Important: Savatiano, Assyrtiko, Malagousia, Roditis, Sauvignon Blanc. Permitted styles: dry, semi-dry, semi-sweet. Important style: dry.

Permitted grapes, red: Agiorgitiko, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Grenache Rouge, Merlot, Syrah. Important: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah. Permitted styles: dry, semi-dry. Important style: dry.

Rosé wines: Agiorgitiko, Roditis, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Grenache Rouge, Merlot, Syrah. Important: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah. Permitted styles: dry, semi-dry. Important style: dry.

At a glance. Region: Attiki and Boeotia (both sides of Mountain Kithaironas). Climate: Mediterranean with continental influences. Topography: hilly terrain with altitude up to 400m. above sea level, gentle rolling hills, clay loam and sandy loam soils. Most important grapes: Savatiano, Malagousia, Assyrtiko, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah. Main Wine Styles: fruity refreshing dry whites / soft fruity reds / rich, dense reds.

Kithaironas is the outlier of the four zones, and the site is right to treat it separately. It is the only one where altitude and continental influence, rather than the sea, set the terms: snow can sit on the vineyards in winter, and the diurnal range through the growing season is wide enough to change what the fruit does.

It is also the only one where red wine is the point rather than the exception, and where international varieties are named among the most important rather than the tolerated. For a region that describes itself as white wine territory, that is a useful counterweight — it means Attiki can offer a serious red without leaving its own boundaries.

The zone straddles two administrative units along both flanks of the mountain. That is unusual, and it says something: the boundary was drawn around a landscape rather than around an administrative line.

04The two appellations side by side

Read across the table and the argument for carrying both appellations becomes obvious. One is a warm, coastal, white-wine region with a stock of seventy-year-old dry-farmed vines. The other is a cool, continental red-wine zone an hour to the north-west. They are neighbours, and they do not overlap.